Story, photos and video by Annika McGinnis
An 
InfoNile project supported by Code for Africa

Story Summary

Wetlands in Kenya are being degraded by climate change, local communities living and farming in the swamps, agriculture and dams – contributing to Kenya’s current water crisis and fish shortages

A 3-year project by Ecofinder Kenya, an NGO working in the Winam Gulf wetlands around Kisumu, offered families living in these Lake Victoria swamps incentives in exchange for them to conserve the wetlands

Benefits for the households included building Ecosan toilets, which convert human and animal waste to biogas energy; solar lamps; and water pumps

Participating households also became “farmer-to-farmer teachers” to share their environmentally friendly farming techniques with their neighbors

After three years, these “farmer-to-farmer” agreements helped wetland plants grow back and fish to return to the swamps

Karen Ondiek of Kajulu Village, Kenya, was struggling. After her husband died to leprosy, she was left alone to care for her 9 children on her small farm on the shores of Lake Victoria.

Though she spent days toiling in the hot sun, machete at her side, money from sales of her vegetables wasn’t enough to cover her children’s school fees. After primary school, her two eldest children dropped out. Her one-room mud house was falling apart.

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Karen Ondiek of Kajulu Village stands in front of her small farm in the Dunga wetland.

But a solution came from the most unexpected of places – something usually considered a disgusting byproduct rather than a resource – human and animal waste.

Over the past three years, Ondiek has been generating the gas she uses for fuel from cow dung and human excrement.

After community-based organization Ecofinder Kenya helped her install a special contraption that generates gas from cow dung and a human latrine in 2012, Ondiek said her life was transformed.

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Karen Ondiek stands next to her Ecosan toilet, which converts human and animal waste to biogas.
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Ondiek’s stove that uses gas produced by the Ecosan toilet. Ondiek said the stove uses less smoke, which is better for her health.
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Ondiek uses the gas produced by her Ecosan toilet for electricity.

She began cooking with the produced gas, which meant she did not have to cut down as many trees for firewood and could cook with less smoke, which was better for her health.

She used the waste generated from the gas as a fertilizer-free manure, planting a new garden of sugarcanes that did not degrade the land and waters around.

By selling her sugarcanes, manure and groundwater, Ondiek’s earnings grew, and after three years she was able to construct a new, sturdy house with several rooms and electricity.

“Since then, I’ve been very, very happy,” Ondiek said. “I feel I’m better than those who are wealthy.”

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Ondiek’s new house.
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Ondiek in her kitchen.

Rather than criminalizing the communities that live within and depend upon the wetlands, Ecofinder takes an innovative approach to conserving the swamps that help clean and protect the enormous lake that sustains the economies of Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania.

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Graphic by Annika McGinnis

From 2014 to 2017, Ecofinder worked with 12 households in the villages of Yala, Dunga, Kusa and Koguta along the lakeshores, offering families incentives that boosted their incomes in exchange for them to conserve the environment.

Some were installed with the Ecosan toilets that convert waste to gas. These toilets also generate manure used for the local farms that helps protect the wetlands around, rather than destroying them through the use of chemical fertilizers.

Other households were provided with solar lamps or helped to install water pumps.

In return, the households agreed not to plant too close to the wetland’s edge, use at least 10 percent of their land to plant trees that attract birds, and become a “farmer-to-farmer teacher,” where they opened their doors to the community, modeled their new farming techniques and encouraged neighbors to also sign so-called “conservation agreements.”

“It is an agriculture that is friendly to environment,” said Leonard Omondi, the cofounder and volunteer coordinator with Ecofinder.

“Like if you’re doing your farming, you can use organic manure from your Ecosan or biogas. You do less stealage. You ensure there’s less erosion. You do mulching. .You plant trees which are adding nutrients into the soil,” Omondi said.

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How the Ecosan toilet works, explained by George Nyawara, an Ecofinder volunteer. Video by Annika McGinnis

After the three years of the project, Ecofinder found through a scientific study that some wetland plants had grown back that help the swamp to purify water.

People living near the lake had also reduced their harvesting of papyrus reeds and instead practiced paddock harvesting, which allows the reeds to regrow.

There were more fish in the wetlands partly because of less cutting down of ambatch trees, where fish come to breed.

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Richard Ojijo of Ecofinder points to the trees and vegetation around Dunga Beach.

Ecofinder also found that community members’ livelihoods had improved alongside the health of the swamps.

To the staff, their model works because the team takes time to work with each farmer one-on-one to develop plans that also boost their incomes.

Ecofinder helps the farmers map out where they should plant trees, where they should keep their cows, said Richard Ojijo, a tour guide and team leader.

Instead of receiving the technologies as a handout, the households also must help finance the interventions.

For instance, during the construction of Ondiek’s Ecosan toilet, she was responsible for feeding and accommodating the workers during the 2 weeks of installment.

“We want them to have the ownership,” Omondi said. “We can’t give them everything. There’s that level of ownership, that ‘I can be able to handle the project very well without messing up.’ So if something happens, they also feel the pinch.”

The project funded by CREE and the MacArthur Foundation constructed 14 hybrid biogas systems, 46 Ecosan toilets, 660 solar lamps and 602 improved cook stoves, reaching 1020 households in the swamps.

Ninety-nine entrepreneurs, more than half women, were also trained in establishing “nature-based” enterprises such as ecotourism centers and tourist activities that celebrate the animals and nature of the area.

Through the organic farming started with the help of her Ecosan toilet, Ondiek plans to start machine agriculture to earn enough for her children to attend secondary school. She, herself, dropped out after primary school.

One of her children wants to become a medical doctor; another, a teacher. The smallest one has dreams to become a police officer.

From a small project that started by transforming waste into capital, Ondiek believes they may yet achieve their dreams.

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One of Ondiek’s children outside of her new house in the Dunga wetland.

Birds at Dunga Beach.

Though wetlands make up just 3 to 4 percent of Kenya’s land area, they are critical to sustaining the health of the country’s people and environment.

The swamps control floods, clean water of pollutants that enter streams and rivers from Kenya’s urban areas, and help support agriculture and livestock, especially during the dry season. This is according to the Kenya Wetlands Atlas produced in 2012 by the Ministry of Environment and Mineral Resources in partnership with the United Nations Environment Programme.

Wetlands are also critical in reducing climate change, as they naturally store carbon dioxide, preventing the gases from being released into the atmosphere.

But the swamps have been severely degraded in recent decades due to climate change, new dams, and encroachment by agriculture and human communities, the Atlas reported.

Wetland loss in Kenya has worsened Kenya’s current water crisis, with widespread scarcity and rationing as rapid urbanization has strained water resources.

Climate change and drought have triggered conflicts over water, especially among pastoral communities. Recent floods near Nairobi that destroyed homes and vehicles were heightened by destruction of the swamps that usually help prevent them.

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A map of all wetlands in the Nile Basin with indicators for Ramsar sites, which are wetlands designated of international importance. Map created by InfoNile.
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DigitalGlobe satellite imagery of the city of Kisumu, Kenya

Kenya’s capital city of Nairobi, one of Africa’s fastest growing cities, literally doubled in size in 20 years- a change seen from space.

In 2017, about 27 percent of Kenya’s population was urban, with dramatic growth also within the coastal trade city of Mombasa and the lakeside port of Kisumu.

For the once-small, sleepy lakeside town, transport infrastructures are developing rapidly. A new port is expected to be built in the next year or two, and a Chinese-funded railway is in the works that aims to connect the Lake Victoria economies to global markets via Mombasa on the Indian Ocean.

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The Mombasa terminal for the Mombasa–Nairobi Standard Gauge Railway, which opened in May 2017.

Kenya shares Lake Victoria, Africa’s largest lake, with its neighbors Uganda and Tanzania.

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Lake Victoria from Dunga Beach.

The East African nations have historically relied upon its waters for fish harvesting, especially since the introduction of the predator fish Nile perch in the 1950s fueled international exports.

But Kisumu- along with the lakeside cities of Kampala and Entebbe in Uganda and Mwanza in Tanzania- has struggled as fishing revenues have plummeted in recent years.

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A freshly caught fish at Dunga Beach.

The issues are once again tied to the swamps. Loss of wetlands, illegal fishing, urban sewage and pollution and a nasty infestation of the water hyacinth weed have hastened the industry’s decline.

Without the swamps as their breeding grounds, the fish cannot survive.

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An aggressive infestation of the water hyacinth plant has affected fishing stock in the Lake Victoria countries.

Kenya Marine and Fisheries Research Institute data shows that the country’s annual fish stocks reduced from 5,000 tonnes to 2,500 tonnes in recent years, The Standard reported.

As the industries have shuttered, fishermen have been forced to look for alternative livelihoods, Omondi said.

Kenya has even begun importing frozen fish from China – which are cheaper for Kenyans to consume than buying ones from their local markets.

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Wetlands in Kenya. Source: Kenya Wetlands Atlas

Kenya does not currently have a national policy on wetlands, though a draft one has been in the works for several years.

The Environmental Management and Coordination Act prohibits construction, excavation and drilling in wetlands. It also gives the environment Minister power to declare wetlands protected areas, which prohibits all activities in wetlands except research, ecotourism, restoration or enhancement of the wetland.

Permitted uses of wetlands include harvesting papyrus, medicinal plants, trees and reeds on a subsistence scale, collecting water for domestic use, and fishing.

But “they are not enforcing,” Omondi said. “Also there’s confusion. You know in Kenya you find there are two levels of government. When you go in the lake fishing, you are under the national government. When you land the fish there at the beach, you are under the county government. So there is a lot of confusion. Who is to enforce what?”

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Dunga Beach waterfront.

Sun overhead, the Dunga beach waterfront in the mid-morning heat bustled with activity.

Fishermen reeled in their morning catches from their wooden boats, the once brightly colored paint on the planks turned to sun-battered watercolors from years of waves.

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Freshly caught fish at Dunga Beach.

A man carefully inserted a hand drill into the planks of a new wooden fishing boat, almost completed after two weeks of heavy work.

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A fisherman completes a wooden fishing boat.

A woman draped bright orange lifejackets across her arm, welcoming back a Kenyan family of tourists from their boat ride in the glistening harbor.

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A staff member at a local tourist company offering boat rides.
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A staff member at a local tourist company offering boat rides.

The fish market at Dunga Beach.

Josephine Agong stood in a checkered apron and headscarf under the hot sun, using a knife to carefully gut a bucket of small ‘helicopter fish’ that she placed to dry on a mat made of papyrus reeds.

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Josephine Agong gutting and frying fish.

Others, the bigger tilapia fish, she dropped to fry in a vat of oil boiling on a stone stove.

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Agong’s fish frying.

Agong had been preparing and selling fish for a year and half at the harbor market.

Business was best when school was in session, she said. But recently, fewer small fish had been harvested from the lake. She herself had 7 children, though 2 had died.

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The fried fish drying in the sun.

She was happy to be using a new stove provided by Ecofinder.

Her old stove was “smokey and used a lot of fuel,” and she used to suffer from a lot of respiratory illnesses.

But her new stove used about a third of the fuel and was much cleaner, she said.

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Josephine Agong cooking with a new energy-saving stove that produced less smoke.

Dunga Beach papyrus boardwalk.

On the other side of the harbor, past the fish market, a long wooden boardwalk provided a raised walkway above the swamp below.

“Do not lean on the rails. Be aware of snakes and monkeys,” read the boardwalk sign.

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Leonard Omondi of Ecofinder stands on the boardwalk, which is built above the swamp.

Among the tourist services listed were bird watching, a Beach Ecology School, a cultural museum, and a fish aquarium.

In a cool enclosure beneath the boardwalk, the sound of chirping crickets revealed stacks of boxes of the insects: a cricket farm.

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The cricket farm below the Dunga Beach boardwalk.
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Crickets being raised in small boxes.

Dressed in a white polo shirt with a tan suit jacket, Richard Ojijo, the Ecofinder site conservation leader for the Dunga wetland, strode toward the watchtower at the end of the boardwalk.

Ojijo used to be a fisherman, but he turned to tourism after the numbers of fish started to reduce in the lake, he said.

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Richard Ojijo, a tour guide and team leader at Ecofinder who runs the Dunga Beach ecotourism center.

Ecofinder first worked with Oijojo through his village environment committee, giving him training in ecotourism, conservation and business skills that enabled him to start his ecotourism business.

Two years ago, Ojijo was able to obtain funding from the French embassy in Kenya to build the Dunga boardwalk, cultural and ecotourism center that attracts groups of tourists to learn about the cultures and nature of the wetland.

Standing on the tall tower, Ojijo pointed toward the expanse of papyrus fields stretching off into the distance.

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Richard Ojijo gestures out at the expanse of papyrus plants in the wetland below.

“See, the wetland is still here… These locals are here and they’re fighting for it. It’s a nice view, isn’t it?” he said.

Conserving the wetland has become a cornerstone of Ojijo’s livelihood, to supporting his two young children and his wife who sells fish in the market.

“When I see green, I see my livelihood, I see my food on the table. I see my fish,” Ojijo said. “If I go out somewhere, I have nothing to stay, nothing to eat.”

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The Dunga Beach fish market.

In the Winam Gulf wetlands, the biggest factors contributing to the swamps’ decline come from the local communities themselves, which depend upon the swamps to sustain their households.

People cut down the natural vegetation to farm, build their houses and harvest papyrus used to weave mats and other handicrafts.

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A small boy works on the neighbor’s farm in the wetland next to Karen Ondiek’s house.

While most people have lived for generations in the villages bordering the swamps, others are “nomads” – discouraged fishermen who settled along the shores to try their hand at farming.

“These are fishing villages, they come here; they settle here; they breed; they’re nomads. They follow fish. Mostly you find that the way they harvest the wetlands are a problem. There’s a way they harvest all over,” Omondi said.

“The major challenge of Lake Victoria is not overfishing. It is pollution,” he said. “All this waste, at the community level they are s******* in this toilet, they are washing their clothes in the wetland and the lake; this river that comes to the lake passes through the sewage,” he said.

Around the years of Kenya’s independence in 1963 and 1964, seasons of heavy rains pushed people away from the wetlands. Now, these people are returning.

Though the wetlands are now held in trust by the county government, the original residents claim that the lands actually belong to them, Omondi said.

Despite national regulations prohibiting commercial activity on wetlands, big commercial farms such as the American Dominion farm in Yala wetland have snatched large expanses of swampland for export agriculture, leaching destructive chemicals into the waterways that cause massive algae blooms.

Pollution from the farms, sewage and washing detergent also spill into the streams, surpassing the wetlands’ natural ability to purify water.

“When you go to Yala you find the community saying ‘why is Dominion allowed to farm and we are not allowed to farm’?

“So the community can carry machetes and chase you away because they want to do the farming just as the commercial Dominion farm from America is doing. So there are those politics,” Omondi said.

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Houses and farms in Koguta Village, another community in the Winam Gulf wetlands.

Ecofinder emerged in 1995 as a group of youth who wanted to support their communities, to help their neighbors mitigate some of these conflicts while helping them improve their lives.

Initially, the group focused on doing drama and puppetry shows conveying messages about preventing HIV/AIDS and conserving the environment.

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An Ecofinder drama performance during a school outreach. Photo provided by Ecofinder

But over the years, the youth movement grew into an NGO that runs an ‘Ecology School’ for local schools and tourists and works with communities in the surrounding wetlands to spread awareness about environmental conservation and offer incentives to protect the nature around.

For Ecofinder staff, what drives them is seeing the success stories, communities adopting practices that conserve the environment while also boosting livelihoods.

In the Koguta village an hour from town, a small mud house was erected in the middle of a large grassy field interspersed with sparse trees.

Near the dwelling, chickens and cows ambled about.

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Cows and chickens graze near the house of Julias Akenge and Janet Auma Ojwang in Koguta village.

A new vegetable garden in the backyard boasted rows of baby tomato plants, the earthly scent of freshly turned soil.

Inside the house, Julias Akenge and Janet Auma Ojwang sat in matching mahogany armchairs, the couches blanketed with gold-embroidered lace coverings.

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Julias Akenge and Janet Auma Ojwang take a rest in their new house built from proceeds from selling solar lamps for Ecofinder.

Photos and congratulatory cards celebrating graduations decorated the newly built walls. Papyrus reeds covered the ceiling.

The couple had completed their new house in January, Akenge said with pride. He pointed to the graduation photos.

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Julias Akenge shows off his family’s graduation photos.

Along with his first wife (Akenge was polygamous), the couple had raised 9 children.

Some had married; others had graduated from college and were working as a teacher and lab technician. Others were still in primary school.

For decades, Akenge and Ojwang had made their living as maize farmers. But flooding in the open fields often destroyed their crops, making it difficult to sell enough to afford their children’s school fees.

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The wetland near Koguta village is prone to floods, and hippos frequently emerge from the waters, destroying crops and attacking villagers.
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Akenge and Ojwang’s new vegetable garden.

Hippos would also frequently emerge from the swamp, attack people and destroy crops, they said.

In 2016, they were participating in a community village savings and loans group when Ecofinder approached them to ask if they were interested in selling energy-saving stoves and solar lamps in their community.

The couple sold solar lamps to people in Koguta for 3,000 Kenyan shillings each on a weekly installment plan of 100 shillings each, Akenge said. Buyers paid using Mpesa, a money transfer and financing service accessible by mobile phone.

Ecofinder trained the couple in environmentally friendly business strategies such as finding alternative packaging methods to replace polythene bags for food and other products.

In return for the business opportunity, the couple agreed to stop cutting down trees on their land and plant new ones.

“Ecofinder told them if they continue cutting down trees and using them, there would be no rains – you know trees attract rains.

So again with that they would not be able to get food because of lack of rain, so that made them change their mind and with that they were able to adopt the green technology,” said George Nyawara, an Ecofinder volunteer.

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Julias Akenge and Janet Auma Ojwang holding a new solar lamp in front of their new house.

Akenge and Ojwang, like many of their neighbors, make and set mats from papyrus reeds grown in the wetland.

Ecofinder also trained them in how to shift their harvesting from time to time to allow the reed to grow back.

As the shadows lengthened in the late May afternoon, Ojwang lit the burner of the house’s shiny silver stove, heating a simple dinner of ugali (maize starch), chicken and sukumawiki (greens).

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Water boiling on the stove powered by gas from the Ecosan toilet.
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A traditional Kenyan meal of chicken, ugali and sukumawiki.

With the new energy saving stove, the household was able to save a lot of money that they used to consume buying firewood, Ojwang said.

Since the community started conserving the wetlands, “there are so many animals and plants, birds; now they have places to live,” Akenge said.

As a Lake Victoria “waterkeeper” association, Ecofinder plans to continue working with the Kisumu communities to improve their lives, driven by the knowledge of the lives they are changing.

“To me, seeing a household at that level grabbing these technologies and flying with them to help them… this is the most powerful thing,” Omondi said.

“You see now they’ve organized themselves,” he said. “They’re growing; they’re moving forward.

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